![]() Surfing is hardly immune from this sort of thinking, but success in surfing is fundamentally different. When will you consider yourself successful? When you receive an award, a trophy, or public acclaim? Whether you start playing the guitar, taking golf lessons, training for marathons, acting, writing, learning martial arts, or participating on a sports team, you usually have an ultimate goal, conscious or unconscious, and you keep running and rerunning a cost- benefit analysis relative to that goal-prospective pain versus prospective gain. ![]() Even for the average, garden-variety participant, surfing is such a unique synthesis of physical exercise and conditioning, intellectual stimulation, and immersion in natural beauty, and is just so downright happy and thrilling, few who experience it can ever let it go. When we come of age and in all likelihood are forced to spend an inordinate amount of time earning money, we forget the timeless joy of undistracted engagement in an activity pursued for its own sake. Why go surfing?Ĭan you remember, as a child, giving yourself wholly to the pursuit of an activity that brought you joy? It might have been swimming, shooting baskets, fishing, or some more sedentary activity, but while you were engaged in it hours would melt away unnoticed. But before we get into the how, let’s address the why. Since this book is designed to help you do this with the least pain and the most fun, we’ll naturally present the topic in some detail. This plunge will cost money, time, and considerable energy. ![]() Practice in our case means picking up a purpose-designed fiberglass “board,” walking to the water’s edge, and literally taking the plunge. In surfing, as in anything worth doing, proficiency comes with practice. By Robert “Wingnut” Weaver Scott Bannerot The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc.Ĭopyright © 2009 Scott Bannerot and Robert Weaver
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